Peter attended the Sichuan Higher Institute of Cuisine, where he received the title of Master Chef and graduated first in his class. After cooking on-board cruise ships, and meeting his wife Lisa, the Chang’s moved to the United States. Peter was the chef for the Chinese Embassy in Washington, D.C. before opening (and closing) several strip-mall Chinese spots in Virginia and Atlanta.

One day, an astute Chowhounder, James Glucksman, walked into a nondescript Chinese restaurant and noticed Peter’s awards (which are written in Chinese) hanging on the wall by the cash register. After translating the Chinese menu for his fellow Hounds, meet-ups ensued. Peter left, “Changians” followed. Fueled by the DC dining board Donrockwell.com, loyal diners followed Peter from restaurant to restaurant, until Peter Chang’s Sichuan fervor caught the attention of two food writers, Todd Kliman of the Washingtonian and Oxford American and Calvin Trillin of The New Yorker. The legend of the peripatetic chef was launched. Crowds came and Peter ran. Until now.

Influenced by neighboring Hunan, Szechuan cooking is important because of its distinctive flavors and breadth of offerings. Its spiciness was created as a way to beat the humidity that blankets the region. This food is earthy, exotic and mind-and-palate-numbingly delicious.

There is a vast divide in the types of cookery served in Szechuan. Historically, a division between rich and poor created two distinct types of tables. Peking, the culinary capitol of China and noble seat, was home to lavish banquets, while many of the citizens enjoyed less elaborate fare from resources close at hand, such as herbs and wild mushrooms.

Boiling, steaming, sautéing in stock, smoking,deep-frying and dry-frying, which creates a distinctive chewy texture, are common culinary techniques in Szechuan kitchens.

The Szechuan palate is built on pungent, bold flavors. Dishes often contain onion, garlic, ginger, pepper and chile, as well as nutty tastes, such as peanuts, sesame seeds and oil. Aromatic ground rice and seeds are used to coat meat for dry-frying. When used with soy products and Szechuan peppercorns, these ingredients produce a piquant spiciness characteristic of the region’s cuisine, dubbed “ma la” or hot and numbing. Ask for “ma la” if you want to try the true Szechuan experience. But, be warned, “ma la” means spicy.